How to install door hinges should know every man. The hinge is one of the key elements of the entire door structure; it not only holds the canvas in the frame, but also ensures its movement. Therefore, how well the door will function depends on the correct installation. With incorrect installation, creaks, mashing and jamming can occur, so it is very important to know how to properly install the hinges on the door.
Types of loops
First you need to familiarize yourself with the varieties of these parts, this will help not only determine which hinges are best placed on the interior and exterior doors, but also understand the specifics of the design, which is very important to consider during installation.
There are 5 most popular models of door hinges:
- Straight - standard samples with plates on the sides (card loops). The most common option for interior doors.
- Corner - differ from straight lines only in the form of plates, they are made in the form of corners. Used for pendulum models.
- Rotatable - rotatable axis with pins instead of plates. Only suitable for light doors.
- Hidden - the hinge is recessed in the door structure. Such hinges are mainly installed on expensive door models.
- Italian - differ in the design of the hinge, similar to furniture options. Used in expensive imported models.
According to the installation method, it is necessary to highlight:
- Overhead - mounted on top of the door structure without prior preparation.
- Mortise - are installed in pre-prepared recesses, forming a flat surface with the door.
- Screw - screwed into the door with the help of pins, the presence of which is provided for by the design of the part.
Depending on the direction in which the door will open, the sides of the mounting distinguish between:
Universal are convenient in that they can be mounted on either side, however, this complicates the process of installation and dismantling of the canvas itself.
Each of the described types has its own nuances during installation. The simplest are card models. The hardest thing is to install hidden loops.
The first thing you start installing the loops with your own hands is the markup. To do this, it is necessary to retreat 20 cm from the bottom and top of the door leaf and outline the initial lines with a pencil. Next, depending on the direction of opening the door, attach the hinges to the marks made, circle the outline and mark the points at the attachment points. At the same time, to ensure the free movement of the hardware, the rods should not touch the door leaf, but they should not be pulled out too much, this will worsen the fastening strength. You should also carefully examine the tie-in points for knots, screwing screws into them can lead to a skew or split the door leaf, so the hinges must be moved 2-3 cm down or up from the problem place.
After that, it is necessary to assemble the door block and similarly make markings on the box, observing at the same time gaps of 2-3 mm between the frame and the door leaf. It is most convenient to do this when the door is not yet installed, otherwise the canvas is fixed in the opening with the help of wedges.
Door block marking for hinges
A third hinge may be required depending on the size and weight of the door leaf. In this case, the insert is not made in the middle, but with a slight offset to the upper hinge in order to regulate the load exerted on the hardware under the influence of the weight of the door leaf. As a rule, for doors up to 80 cm wide, up to 2 m high and up to 50 mm thick, two hinges are enough.
Installing simple card loops
Do-it-yourself card door hinges are mainly installed in two ways. To begin, consider the simplest using overhead parts. To do this, you need a drill and self-tapping screws, as well as hinges with a special structure, their feature is that the halves have a different shape, and when closing the doors they enter into each other, which is why they can be installed directly on the surface of the door. Mark the holes with a pencil and drill them. If the door leaf is made of wood, MDF or plastic, you can immediately screw the screws, without first drilling.
Overhead loop installation sequence
Traditionally, direct card loops used in the house are installed slightly differently. So that they do not stop the mechanism when closing, they need to be drowned a little. The easiest way to insert card hinges into interior doors with your own hands is by using a chisel, for this a layer of material is cut to the depth of the part on the door and loot. Then the halves of the loops are applied to the installation site and secured with screws.
Insertion Card Loops Installation Sequence
Installation of corner card models
For doors with a narthex, it is better to choose corner hinges, in essence they are the same patterns as simple card hinges, but their halves have the shape of a corner. How to embed corner hinges in a door? In exactly the same way as straight lines - one part is fixed on the groove, and the other - at the end of the canvas.
Corner models are designed in the form of two corners and are mounted mortise
Insert Hidden Loops
In modern homes are increasingly using more advanced models of fittings. Hidden hinges do not burden the appearance of the doors, it’s quite easy to care for them, and the features of their design and installation increase the resistance class to burglary, which is an important factor for entrance doors.
Hidden loop patterns
How to put hidden hinges on the door:
- Mark the position of the parts
- Using an electric cutter, make a depression under the mechanism,
- With a chisel, remove the layer of material in the place reserved for the fasteners,
- Separate the loops
- Insert the larger element into the door frame and fix it with self-tapping screws,
- Fasten the smaller part in the canvas,
- Connect both parts of the hinges and tighten the fixing screw.
If desired, decorative inserts can be installed over the mounts.
Hinges are embedded using an electric router
Not as often as the above models use screw and Italian loops. How to be in this case? Italian models are installed in the same way as card models, the only difference is the location of the hinges, unlike standard ones, they are installed not at the ends of the door system, but at the top and bottom.
Screw-in hinges can be easily distinguished in appearance, instead of plates on the sides they have threaded pins, with their help, the part is fixed in the door frame and door leaf, this is ideal for mock models of structures. In addition, another advantage is the ability to adjust using a hexagon. To hide the metal part of the hinges, they can be masked with decorative caps.
Screw-in model only suitable for lightweight door leafs
Simple metal doors usually connect to the hinges with a weld, but certain skills are required to weld the hinges to the iron door. It should also be noted that the hinge mechanism must initially be welded to the mounting plates. Work is carried out only by a continuous seam. Thanks to the mounting plates, it is possible to facilitate the task and easily weld the parts to their intended places. So that the seams do not interfere with the movement of the canvas, they must be carefully cleaned, for example, with a grinder. If you doubt that you can perform such a job correctly, it is better to seek the help of a wizard.
Hinges of metal doors are often welded
So, we will consider how to adjust card loops on an interior or metal door? If the structure is loose, tighten the screws. Modern products have in their design a mechanism that is regulated using a hex key, and allows you to pull the door to the desired level.
Now let's look at how to adjust hidden door hinges. This can only be done in the open position. First you need to remove the decorative trim, then use the hex wrench to tighten the screw. Due to the design features, the position of the door can be adjusted in three planes.
Inserting door hinges is a rather troublesome task, but nevertheless quite simple to do it yourself. Following our recommendations, each of you will be able to correctly fix and adjust any kind of door hinges.
Replacing the hinges of the driver's door, photo report
Well, the May 1 weekend was not in vain.
The topic of door hinges has been raised many times already on the forum, namely, the sagging of the DRIVING door in an almost closed state, as the sag in the fully open did not appear.
For this, they were bought at a parsing, for 500r, both loops - UPPER and LOWER, but. from the passenger (important, I will explain further) on the same side. The machine was fresh, but suffered badly, so the front part was simply cut off and thrown tobish loops from the water. there was no door.
Also, people asked how to change them, which was almost always
answer - I have to shoot a TORPEDA. I did this without removing it, and therefore it took not so much time.
What we need:
1. Properly growing HANDS
2. Phillips and slotted screwdrivers (both middle)
3. A set of torxes 6-and 12-sided (I will add numbers later)
4. Tool kit (ratchet wrench + 8 and 10 heads + extension cords + extension cross)
5. Free time (1-2 hours)
So the work itself:
1. For convenience, we need to completely remove the waters. a door.
To do this, remove the door trim, then remove the plastic casing located on the driver's side and make up the bottom of the torpedo
position 15. I will not describe the removal procedure (4 screws for Torx + 2 connectors) and plastic protection that is near the hood opening handle.
We pull out 2 connectors going to the door
We remove the corrugation of the door and pull out the wires.
Next, unscrew the door from the hinges (3 screws for the torx) and put it so as not to peel the timber.
2. Removing / replacing the upper loop.
Unscrew the outer bolt.
In order to unscrew the internal bolt is required - unscrew the bar (2 nuts on a turn-key 10),
on which the relays and the connecting block are attached, then we take everything aside (the length of the wires allows). On the stand under the upper loop there is a plug, remove it, so it will be more convenient to direct the key through the hole that has formed. Behind the fixture "Traverse the dashboard"
we observe a hole in the body, so it is through it that you can get to the internal bolt. Here lies a small snag, because the bolt is not located opposite the hole (or it seemed to me) I had to use an extension cord-cross (general design - ratchet key + extension cord + extension cord-cross + head for 8 + bits - 12-sided torx).
Everything turned out wonderful. But he did not pull out the boltbecause I was afraid that he would fall inside the body and from there, he won’t be able to remove it, and immediately screwed a new “loop”. Assembly in reverse order.
3. Removing / replacing the lower loop.
To do this, click the block block
(gag, perhaps right), the latch is located in the top in the middle, then everything moves up and is pulled to the side.
We also find a hole through which we unscrew the bolt. A bolt is also tightened from the outside (turnkey head by 13, maybe someone changed it !!),
a little inconvenient because the wing interferes.
Accordingly, we collect in the reverse order. ABOUT the hinges, it turns out that the LOWER hinges are different ((((, because from the front door the bolts are tightened from different sides, and the back door is only internal.
4. Next, we look at the gaps, etc. in general, if required, we adjust the door.
Putting everything in place, washing it))))